Nyepi

So, in March 2004, against a Government advisory, I find myself in Bali, at Nyepi. I am used to being in random cities shutdown for elections, but Nyepi is something else. Everything shuts down…

Nyepi is a Hindu celebration Bali’s Lunar New Year; its purpose is for self reflection, contemplation. Anything that could detract from or impede this is prohibited – no lights nor fires; no music, entertainment or pleasure; no working nor travelling; even eating or talking are technically disallowed. The empty streets are patrolled to ensure no breaches occur. OK, it’s a more informal story in the hotels, but the beach/off-site is out of bounds, there are no exterior lights, no taxis, no boats, no hotel check-in nor check-out (the airport is closed anyway), and there are limited opportunities for food and drink. All rather eerily silent – definitely inward facing.

In stark contrast maybe, a group of us ended up in the only restaurant open in our admittedly luxurious hotel. Self reflection of a different nature occurred. In an encounter session of worrying proportions, a Canadian (rightfully) told an Australian woman she was stuck-up, even though her husband, an ex butcher, was sitting next to her and was proud of his reputation with a knife (on humans). A homophobic and very unstable OZ decided he was gay after all. The Canadian was propositioned by the barman. I had an early and peaceful night…

So why the image with a full moon? Easy, I had to go back for more Bali 5 months later. The UK Government along with other European countries had lifted the advisory on travel and the place was rather full, all except this wonderful beach-side restaurant – and a table for one :(

And no encounter sessions this time around…